Captain's blog July/ August 2012

So, my vacation was once again coming to an end. Unfortunately, this year the summer in Finland had yet to materialize so I had not enjoyed much of any warm weather although I had met a lot of old friends and a few new ones. Anyway, it was time to pack the 'ol trunk and get my arse to Helsinki to fly via Mumbai to Colombo.

Monitor lizard at Galle seafront

I boarded on time and flew first to Heathrow, London where my layover was 2h45m and I nearly missed my connection to Mumbai. There were a lot of people lining up for connection flight boarding passes and when I got the booth the lady said the gate is closed. I asked what do you mean closed, there is still an hour left and the plane has not left yet. She said I came late and the gate is closed. I replied that I just arrived from Helsinki, what do you want me to say? Isn't there anything you can do? Then she made a call somewhere and fiddled around on her computer and came out with the boarding passes and told me to hurry. 

Well, said and done I hurried, after 20meters I reached another checkpoint where the gent ripped my boarding passes and told me I am upgraded to coach deluxe. Bloody great, just give me my boarding passes, I need to hurry. I went off again at full pace and reached the security "express line" which to me seemed as fast as the regular line. Through I went finally, and I hurried down to the inter-terminal railway station as I needed to change from terminal 3 to terminal 5. 

Luckily the train was there almost as on request and as I stepped in the train the doors closed and off we went. I came to terminal 5 and continued my trek towards my gate and arrived at a queue that was 30m long. Luckily for me the plane was a bit delayed, and I got in good order albeit drenched in sweat. The flight leaves eventually and I am in deep slumber after a late last evening at my childhood friend, Taru's, pad.

The flight is 8+ hours long so I wake up at the stage they start serving drinks and food. I stare myself silly on inane movies from the on-demand system in lack of anything else to do as well as turn a few pages on the book I brought with me. I fall asleep again at some stage and wake up to the waiters serving a very early morning snack or very late supper. 

Soon enough we land, and I venture to the Visa on arrival queue. The thing is incredibly poorly arranged, and the Officers can barely talk English. I am directed to a sofa group at the side of the immigration desks where a group of elderly Filipino ladies sit and laugh as well as a young Japanese lady. She looks extremely bored with the Immigration officer. 

I am given a form to fill up that is the same as you will fill any visa application form with the usual Indian paranoia if I have relatives in Pakistan and so forth. I fill up the form but have no picture to give, they also ask me of my hotel booking as well as my onward journey ticket. As I did not have any of what they asked it took them hours to find a printout of my onward journey, the photo was skipped and multiple phone calls to get them to understand I am staying at a friend's place. 

Finally, after some 3-4 hrs I was led through to pay for the visa (2000 INR) and I got the stamp, collected my luggage and was on my way towards Avnish pad. The Japanese girl was also at the visa payment desk at the same time as me. I saw her having only Indonesian rupees which naturally were not accepted, they are worthless anywhere outside Indonesia itself, so I offered to pay for her as well otherwise she'd never make it through the immigration. She asked if I was sure, and I said yes, and off she went. I hope she got through alright. In hindsight I think she may have faked it all, who knows.

At Avnish pad I had a few snacks, and we changed a few words of latest news and hit the sack after a cold Kingfisher started to weigh my eyelids. Next morning was busy in meeting with the Office people and the program of Kalizma and other small vessels accompanying her. Then it was lunch time that had to be in Gokul's with Avnish. After that a bit more meeting and saying goodbye to Cmde Mongia & Avnish and then it was again off to the airport for my flight to Colombo. 

Arrived early morning and was picked up by our local driver who soon was whisking me off towards Galle in his minivan. There is now a brand spanking new Chinese built elevated motorway all the way to Hambantota port so the road was pretty smooth once we got onto it. The stretch through Colombo though was as chaotic as before but being the wee hours traffic was not too bad.

Once in Galle we had to get the agent to arrange me the requisite permissions to enter the port and get onboard. Even though Sri Lanka has entered a peaceful stage in their history the paranoia of security still lingers on from the Tamil Tiger scourge, but I could see the military presence was relaxing. Ports are a different story due to the security codes implemented by IMO internationally. So, there is a fair deal of red tape in Asian countries to gain access to commercial ports complying to the ISPS code. 

I can't even think how a marina could operate in these conditions, there is still a long way to go. After some turns and twists I got the agent, and he did his stuff and soon enough I was onboard saying hello to everyone and then hit the sack for a couple of hours as I was knackered of the overnight flight and land travel.

Mumbai blues

I arrived well on the 19th from Maldives and next few days are spent writing reports and price estimates for the proposed project in case it takes off. The funny thing happening is now that Mumbai Port Trust or the immigration (according to agent) is not issuing me a dock pass. I can sign on the yacht but not go ashore (unless e.g. visiting a Doctor). The other option I suggested then was to designate me as the ship superintendent and I got a pass but I could not stay overnight, I am told by the agent to stay at a hotel. Catch 22 situation...

Victoria Docks being filled up, a historical landmark soon gone

Old sheds being demolished at Victoria Docks

Further had to run to FRRO offices to apply for visa extension and here another problem arises in the form of paid taxes. As I receive my salary abroad to an offshore account I don't pay any taxes in India and explaining this to the bureaucrats was like explaining quantum mechanics to a slum dweller. Well, the 20th I stayed onboard overnight and nobody's alarm bells rang.

Basin being land filled at Victoria Docks

Old pilot boat

An era gone by

On the 21st the agent asks me 20.000 rupees for the visa extension, on the 23rd & 24th I still run in the FRRO office and the Tax office re: the tax issue. Our agent is proving to be useful like a donkey with tits. At least I get some real work done too as all UB boats are sent upstream to Belapur for the monsoon and I crash at Thomas place as we finish very late in the evening.

M/y Linse on the way to Belapur

Gateway of India, side view

25th is the final time I visit the FRRO office, they grant me a 3mths extension that can be extended another 9mths provided I get them the tax paper. Needless to say this is not going to happen and other things are brewing so I take it in my stride. No point in arguing with a desk person.

Mumbai architecture

Mumbai architecture

26th I'm dealing with paperwork and in the evening I go to the Comedy Club at Phoenix Mills to watch some standup comedy with Anahita Marker, quite entertaining in the end. Afterwards we have a veg dinner at the Punjab Grill and I'm totally stuffed.

Mumbai architecture

Victoria train station

27th I prepare my final handover notes and am invited to a farewell dinner at Aashim's pad. On the 28th I start my handover and on the 29th I'm flying again, this time to Europe. I arrive at 2am Nice, France on the 30th May and take a taxi to Monaco to sign on Indian Empress. I arrive just in time to see all the festivities winding down and get my bags onboard and crash to start next morning as Chief Officer.

Kala Ghoda

I had been wanting to buy the movie about Phoolan Devi after reading the book about her (author: Mala Sen). She was a notorious dacoit in the Uttar Pradesh backwaters that got embroiled in a bitter caste feud that ended in her allegedly killing several men in a village that had violated her. Later she surrendered and was imprisoned for several years, after her release she went into politics and was gunned down in the streets of New Delhi in 2001.

Maharashtra Police headquarters

Kala Ghoda

Army & Navy building

Kala Ghoda residences

The Rhythm House

Kala Ghoda residences

Victoria train station (actually not in Kala Ghoda anymore)

Anyway, I was advised by Sunil that the place to go was the Rhythm House in Kala Ghoda to find the movie, if anyone would stock it, they would. As it was close to the Gateway of India we went by foot and I was surprised that after such a long time I had not discovered this area in Mumbai, and it was so close too. Sunil explained that most building are Owned by wealthy Parsis that are very successful business people.

Once in Rhythm House I asked for the movie and got it in no-time. The shop was stocked up to the rafters with music, movies from every genre and every format.

Brunch in Mumbai

On the8th Xerxes Dhunjeebhoy and Sunil had invited me for brunch to JW Marriott. It is a tradition in Mumbai to go out for brunch on Sunday's and so we were in a taxi heading up to Juhu in northwest Mumbai along the coast route. The brunch was starting at 12.30hrs until 16.00hrs.

Another example on Indian mass transport

 

The Sealink

At JW Marriott, Xerxes, Sunil & me.

When we arrived we were shown our booked table and so it started, ordered drinks and off to the buffet table.  The spread that was on offer was incredible, every imaginable cuisine was available, my favorite, cheese, were there in many different flavors. And we ate so much, all the way until four o'clock.

Sunil, me & Xerxes

The Ambani "pad" Antilia that we passed on the way back

After we left the JW Marriott there was only one destination in our mind, our beds.

Those interested in the JW Marriott brunch can click here for more info.

BRYC closing regatta

On the 7th I was invited to participate in the Bombay Royal Yacht Club's season closing regatta. It is customarily done on the estimated last weekend before the rains start. The day was sunny and wind was there as well so all the elements were there for an enjoyable afternoon.

Cmde Mongia at the wheel

I boarded Cmde Mongia's s/y Ninikins as a spectator to compete with 2 other boats in the same size class and I was showed where I could sit without being in the way. The principle of sailing is not unfamiliar for me at all but the machinations of a bigger sailing yacht was new to me. As a kid I used to do a lot of optimist and windsurfing so I knew the basics.

Chetan Fernandes

The sailing crew was Nitin Mongia and Chetan Fernandes, both old timers in the sailing circuit in Mumbai and India if not even Internationally. Then there was a a local group following Nitin and Chetan to come and help as well as to enjoy the camaraderie of the friendly regatta.

Closing to the turning point

The boats circled about the start buoy and came into somekind of agreed pattern with the big boats leaving first and then the smaller ones. Then we waited for the yacht club officials to hoist the start flag and once it was up it was away with all boats. We took the lead at first and held it until we came with the wind from astern it was time to hoist the spinnaker. Unfortunately our old hands messed up the spinnaker and before it was untangled another boat had taken the lead.

M/y Kalizma

M/y Ashena

We tried to gain on the lead but the going was slow, at best we did 7 knots. Some distance was gained but in the end we came in on the 2nd position but the afternoon was not so much for competition, it was more of a social gathering and having fun one afternoon.

Back to Mumbai

Like all vacations we have they always end and this day was my return to reality. I could not get any long mornings, not that I have the need for them anymore as in my youth when I could sleep until noon, now I had to get up and catch my flight to Mumbai.

Back to Mumbai

I was up and had a light breakfast and thanked my hosts for their hospitality and letting me stay in their house for these few days. It had been an interesting experience to visit Bengal even for this short period. Then I was out the door and took a taxi to the airport.

At the airport I managed to check in my luggage without any bigger problems and boarded the Kingfisher flight. We landed on time in Mumbai and I was met by our driver Santosh at the airport and he took me to the Gateway of India where I was met by the Kalizma tender and I was soon onboard and being greeted by Saini and other crew.

Map of M-wall

The day went on discussing handover notes and future plan of spending the monsoon in Trincomalee, Sri Lanka. Basically everything had been planned to the last detail, we only waited for the go ahead from our Management.

M-wall and a row of barges at it

3rd May Signed off Saini for vacation and i signed on at the Yellow Gate Police station, all went ok for once. Discussed various maintenance requirements scheduled for the monsoon with the office and met with Mishra Yogi from Yeoman Marine.

4th May Did seatrials with several smaller yachts related to Kalizma's management that was not very successful. My snag list became suddenly very long.

Later I inspected the M-wall at the Prince's Dock, the area was ok but not really a place I would bring a yacht alongside, at least not for a very long duration. Furthermore, I saw works were going along to reclaim land from Victoria Dock to Cross Island in way of the envisaged Container Terminal that was being developed against all odds. I'm surprised no environmentalist has cried foul yet.

Cross Island

5th May was spent chasing various work quotes.

6th May Met up with Mishraji at his office, our naval architect, and discussed stability issue for some minor engineering modification that involved some weight shifting. Later I was invited for lunch to a Punjabi Restaurant and had a delicious vegetarian lunch with Mishraji. Later in the afternoon I receive news that the Trincomalee relocation is cancelled. Kalizma will stay at the M-wall for the monsoon. In light of our last years experience it was not a very appealing decision in terms of maintenance.

Mumbai - Goa - Mumbai

On the 1st I handover my Chief Officer duties to Tetso and I pack to leave for Goa to see that everything is alright on Kalizma. On the 2nd I carry my small pack ashore and wander around Mumbai aimlessly until late evening when the bus departs for Goa. As it is a first time for me I did not realize they got sleeper beds like in trains and I got a semi-reclining chair. The bus has no dinner stop either so it goes on and on through the night and is punctuated by short loo stops. The road over the mountains in Karnataka is winding and the bus driver makes his best to beat his former speed record Mumbai - Goa. Needless to say I hardly got any sleep on the bus. Next morning I arrive Goa bleary eyed and I'm met by Saini who is picking me up at the end stop in Panaji.

Mumbai to Goa (compliments by google maps)

We get onboard and I take a short time out to get my thoughts in order before we start tackling pending issues. We discuss engine matters, A/C plant, dry docking, accounts and so forth. All really boring work stuff that I'm not going to write about here.

Evening the 4th  I take the crew out for dinner and we head out for a Goan seafood restaurant, Amigos, at the Sinquerim river in Verem, just under the bridge. The setting is nice but the parking is awful on the top of the road. They have also nowadays a road down the embankment. We ordered all the Goan specialities including a vindaloo and asked the staff to make it spicy as our Naga girls had tagged along and they like their food spicy. Well, the message did not go through as the dishes we got were more like spiced with ketchup than chili so we sent it back to the kitchen. They returned after some time and then they were spicy, a bit, but not much. After finishing up the dinner we went on to Candolim and sat for a few hours at the Jazz Corner listening to some local boys playing songs in Konkan language. Once they finished their set it was time to head back to the ship.

On the 5th I get news that IE is sailing for Lakshadweep and my presence is required, so I wrap up matters onboard and prepare to leave the next day. In the evening I meet my old laundry steward, Nandush Noronha, from m/y Silver and he took me out for dinner to Sea Shells out in Santa Paula. Nandush is now working for a cruise ship as Laundry Manager and cruising Brazil. Sea Shells restaurant is setup very nicely a bit on the side so it is kind of hard to find unless you know exactly what and where you are looking for. The food was excellent Goan cuisine. We exchanged gossip and news since 2008 while having dinner and then I retired back to the ship.

IE in front of Gateway

On the 6th evening I board the bus for Mumbai and brace myself for another sleepless night. At least here they stop for a dinner somewhere in the country side and I have some chicken thali which is not so bad. At least it does not give me delhi belly. I dose through the night and eventually we arrive Mumbai at the crack of dawn. I get a taxi and get myself to the Gateway where the IE tender picks me up and takes me onboard. The day is followed by briefings and last minute preparations for departure the next day 8th.

Voyage Colombo - Mumbai

So we had the sailing orders and port clearance was done. All we were missing now was the relieving Chief Engineer, Phil, who was arriving at noon.

Colombo Port behind the cruise jetty

Engines were running and linesmen were standing by, crew was on stand by and we had permit to cast off and we are waiting for the taxi to arrive with Phil. Pilot was not needed as Colombo have this "rule" or custom that if the Master is confident that he can take out the ship without any assistance he can do that, this is usually asked by the VTS.

Dagoba next to the port

Eventually the taxi cruises on the jetty just on time and Phil gets out and climbs onboard. The crew collects the gangway and orders are given to cast off all the lines. As we are in the innermost corner of the port we move astern and swing around by starboard. Once our bow is pointing north we start making slow headway of 2-3 kts but are soon chased by the VTS who says "can you please speed up, we got other ships waiting to enter". As I'm on duty I have the handles so I increase speed, by the time we are passing the breakwater the log is showing 8 kts, I hope it was fast enough for them.

We are once again heading for Mumbai and the seas are calm and the sun is shining. At least the weather was better then when we were coming. Next 2 days goes in the routine of the sea, weather continues to favor us and crew is doing washdown of the yacht. On the morning of 21st we arrive a hazy/ foggy Mumbai.

It is incredibly hot and humid, the haze is ever present and gives hardly a miles visibility. it is that time of the year again. The end of the month goes in doing all ISM jobs and preparing handover to my relieving Chief Officer, Tsvetan Nenkov.

Blue Frog and Indus Creed

One morning Nik and I was perusing the Times of India entertainment section and he discovered an ad for Indus Creed performing at Blue Frog. He got all excited and claimed they were the best rock band in India and so we decided to go see them.

Mumbai by night

Came Friday and me, Nik and Anil headed out to paint the town blue or whatever color. At first we went to Gokul’s for some feed and a few drinks and then we caught a taxi to Blue Frog, of course we got a quart of and some sada paan to keep us content for the ride.

Blue Frog is situated in the cotton mill area of Mumbai that saw big upheavals in the 90’s as lot of people lost their jobs and property speculators bought up factory plots to redevelop them into high end night clubs et al.

Blue frog turned out to be a small club with round booths to seat 8-10 persons. Nice design but nobody took into account that if one person in the other end of the circle had a nature call, all other people had to get up to let him pass, there was no space to get up and go behind the seats.

We studied the menu and could not even find Kingfisher on it, and considered Budweiser an insult to our tastebuds, so we settled for Old Monk, the only Indian product on the menu. We ordered in some Indian appetizers for exorbitant prices and got some odd continental Indian fusion of stuff, nevermind, we ate it with gusto and washed it down with Old Monk.

The warm up duo

Then a couple appeared to perform some jazzy number, the guy was playing the guitar and the beauty was singing. Once they were done the audience had not warmed much up at all in my opinion but our spirit was soaring high in anticipation of Indus Creed.

Soon enough they appeared and opened up with a nice rock ensemble. As it was we stood next to the mixing table and could see the whole playlist. The staff told us not to use the flash so I recorded the songs Nik wanted. At one stage they brought in a troupe of violinist and performed a really nice song called the “Fly”.

The "bad: Trio

At some stage I ran out of batteries and the night descended into a foggy memory due to the Old Monk and next thing I knew we were on our way to Gateway and realized we had missed the last tender. Luckily enough we saw at Gateway the tender of m/y Ashena and asked the boys to do us a favor and bring us onboard, they were happy enough to oblige as our ship was on the way to theirs..

Male' atoll - voyage to Mumbai

8^th I am invited to join Nina, Avnish and Joya to have lunch on Banyan tree resort to give Nina a farewell as she was signing off. It is a small resort north of Male’ Island and we arrive on the jetty were we get to moor our tender boat. The lunch is buffet with mixed Continental and Chinese cuisine. The food was not that great but I guess that is the norm as everything has to be flown or shipped into the country so nothing is ever fresh off the fields. 

Nina on the way to Banyan Tree

Joya at Banyan Tree

Banyan Tree resort

The E-W path that crossed the Island

The pavilion, perfect to sit and get hammered

More beach

Sting Ray feeding

Before leaving Banyan Tree we saw the daily Sting Ray feeding taking place at the jetty. The local guide fed the Sting Rays some kind of fish while giving the audience a lecture of the habits of Sting Rays, pretty interesting.

The next 2 days went diving with the deck crew at Banana reef and Furana south. Spotted turtles and Napoleon Wrasse fish along with Moray Eels and Lion fish, cool fun dives.  

Banana Reef

On the 10^th I was giving Joya a snorkeling lesson at Bandos Island and was rewarded with lunch. Bandos is still the same “Bandit” Island as it was in 2007 when I was there the last time, pure daylight robbery by charging 20 US$ to enter the Island. Well, I guess one has to make a living somehow.

Huge school of small fish at Furana

In the evening I took a stroll in Male’ while Avnish was taking care of business with our agent. Noticed that the tourist shops selling sea shells just got cheaper the further into the Island one wandered. At the beach front a fist sized cowrie sold for 25 USD, a few blocks in it sold for 10 USD and at a non-descript general store it sold for 1 USD. Otherwise Male’ residents seemed quite well off as many famous trademark shops lined the streets and displayed their wares.

The flag was still up after sunset

At 10pm we weigh anchor and leave for Mumbai. We had to take pilot onboard as apparently it is required when you enter and exit the country.

Last Maldivian sunset for us

Next day on 11^th at sea it is Zina’s birthday so the crew arranges a birthday card with the requisite cake to wish her a Happy Birthday.

Happy Birtday Zina :)

13th morning we arrive Mumbai and there is heavy traffic and fog (smog?) bringing the visibility under 1'. I could barely see the stranded MSC Chitra by the fairway. The pilot was delayed for hours but eventually we get him also onboard. Anchored as usual in front of Gateway of India about noon. Another cruise had come to an end.